5 Myths About Skin Aging and Wrinkles
Medical review by Camila Yepes, PA-C
No one wants to look older than they are. But with so many myths about wrinkles, it can be hard to know what’s true or how to keep your skin looking as smooth and youthful as possible.
Camila Yepes, PA-C, a board-certified physician assistant at Water’s Edge Dermatology, debunks some of the most common misconceptions about wrinkle prevention and treatment and explains what it really takes to keep fine lines and creases at bay.
Myth 1: How much you wrinkle depends mainly on your genes
Fact: Your genes play a role in how your skin ages, but how quickly you develop wrinkles depends mostly on sun exposure.
“You may have good genes, but if you’re not protecting your skin from ultraviolet rays, that’s going to cancel out any genetic advantage you may have,” Yepes said.
Consider what causes wrinkles. They happen because the fat in deep layers of the skin shrinks with age, and because the skin naturally thins and becomes less elastic. Spending too much time in the sun makes things worse by speeding the breakdown of collagen and elastin, proteins that make skin look plump and firm.
Getting too much sun exposure isn’t the only lifestyle factor that encourages wrinkles. Smoking and over-consuming alcohol do, too, Yepes noted.
So even if your parents look great for their age, don’t assume the same will be true for you. To prevent wrinkles, use a broad-spectrum sunscreen with SPF 30 or higher every day, skip the cigarettes and vape pens and curb any excessive drinking.
RELATED: How to Prevent Wrinkles While You Still Can
Myth 2: Botox is always the best treatment for wrinkles
Fact: There are two main types of wrinkles, and Botox is effective against only one of them.
“Botox is a good treatment for dynamic wrinkles, such as crow’s feet and forehead lines, which are caused by muscle contractions that happen with repetitive facial movements,” said Yepes. Botox injections work by temporarily paralyzing the muscles so they can’t contract.
But Botox won’t do anything for the other type of wrinkles, called static wrinkles. These develop due to the loss of elasticity and fat in the skin. Examples of static wrinkles include neck wrinkles, wrinkles under the eyes and marionette lines, which start at the corners of the mouth and extend to the chin.
If you’re bothered by static wrinkles, ask your dermatologist about wrinkle treatments that help minimize them, including retinol cream and dermal fillers such as Juvéderm and Restylane.
Myth 3: Facial exercises are good for preventing wrinkles
Fact: Repetitive movements lead to dynamic wrinkles, so facial exercises and “facial yoga” aren’t going to take years off your face.
“Performing these movements could actually make dynamic wrinkles worse because you’re forcing your facial muscles to contract,” Yepes said.
Whole-body physical exercise, on the other hand, can benefit the skin.
“People who exercise regularly usually look younger than those who don’t,” Yepes noted. Chalk up the benefits in part to better blood flow, which means that more oxygen and nutrients reach the skin and cellular waste and toxins are whisked away faster.
Myth 4: People with oily skin wrinkle less
Fact: People often associate dry skin with wrinkles, but generally speaking, oily skin is just as prone to developing these hallmarks of aging.
“Dry skin sometimes looks older because lack of moisture can make wrinkles and sagging look more prominent, but oil production has nothing to do with how quickly the skin ages,” Yepes said.
One caveat: There’s some evidence that people with oily skin do tend to have shallower forehead wrinkles, thanks to a greater density of sebaceous (sebum-producing) glands in the forehead, which is associated with thicker skin.
If dry skin is making you look older, you may need to use a more effective moisturizer. “Look for one with hyaluronic acid, which is particularly effective at maintaining moisture,” Yepes suggested.
Myth 5: Collagen supplements can reduce wrinkles
Fact: Collagen loss plays a major role in skin aging. But if collagen supplements work for treating wrinkles or sagging skin, there’s no good evidence to prove it.
“Good nutrition is important for the overall health of your skin, but taking extra collagen can’t firm sagging skin,” Yepes said.
Some studies have shown slight improvements in skin appearance with collagen supplementation, but these studies were small and sponsored by the product manufacturers. In reality, it’s not clear whether collagen supplements even enter the bloodstream. Acids in the stomach may break them down before they get there.
“If you want to build collagen, it’s better to use topical products that have been demonstrated to do so, such as retinol cream and vitamin C serum,” Yepes advised.
Written by Jessica Brown, a health and science writer/editor based in Brooklyn, New York. She has written for Prevention magazine, jnj.com, BCRF.org, and many other outlets.
Wrinkle Cream vs. Botox: Which Wrinkle Treatment Is Right for You?
Medical Review By: Denise Guevara, DO
To treat wrinkles, should you slather on the wrinkle cream or book a Botox appointment?
Understanding which types of wrinkles each one treats can help you make the right decision. For example, an over-the-counter or prescription-strength retinol or retinoid cream is noninvasive and cheaper than Botox. (Retinols are weaker versions of retinoids, which are available by prescription. Both are derivatives of vitamin A.) With continued use, you should see a reduction in wrinkles over a matter of weeks or months.
On the other hand, you may get faster, more dramatic results with Botox, which blocks nerve signals to the injected muscles, reducing the muscle activity that leads to wrinkles. With Botox, wrinkles are often reduced or eliminated within a week, and the treatment takes just 10 to 15 minutes.
But the truth is that Botox, while powerful, is not always more effective than wrinkle cream.
“The choice between using or getting Botox injections depends on whether you have static wrinkles or dynamic wrinkles,” explained Denise Guevara, DO, a board-certified dermatologist at Water’s Edge Dermatology.
Wrinkle cream for static wrinkles
Wrinkle cream is the better option for static wrinkles, according to Dr. Guevara. Examples of static wrinkles include neck wrinkles, wrinkles under the eyes and marionette lines, which start at the corners of the mouth and extend down to the chin.
Static wrinkles develop as a result of age-related skin changes. Over time, the body produces less collagen and elastin, proteins that keep skin plump (collagen) and firm (elastin). As levels decline, the face loses volume and the skin becomes thinner, which leads to wrinkled, sagging or crepe-y skin. Sun damage, pollution, smoking and vaping all speed up the process. Retinol creams help reverse it.
“Retinol diminishes the appearance of wrinkles and lines because it boosts collagen and elastin production, making your skin look more plump and youthful,” said Dr. Guevera.
It may take some time for your skin to get used to the active ingredient in these creams. If the concentration is too high, you may experience stinging, peeling, redness or dryness, especially if you have sensitive skin. Your dermatologist can help you choose the right concentration.
Dr. Guevara recommends using a retinol cream only three times a week instead of every day to avoid irritation.
Botox for dynamic wrinkles
Botox is the better choice for dynamic wrinkles. These are caused by repetitive facial movements such as smiling, frowning and squinting. When you’re young, dynamic wrinkles are temporary because elastin allows the skin to snap back into place. But as elastin declines, these lines eventually become permanent.
Examples of dynamic wrinkles include worry lines (vertical wrinkles between the eyebrows, also known as elevens), horizontal forehead wrinkles and smile lines (wrinkles that develop around the sides of the mouth).
Like static wrinkles, dynamic wrinkles can develop prematurely. Smoking, for example, causes people to squint and pucker their lips, creating dynamic wrinkles at the corners of the eyes (crow’s feet) and creases around the edges of the lips.
“Dynamic wrinkles can also form sooner in people who simply have very expressive faces, meaning their face moves more than average when they’re speaking or reacting to something,” noted Dr. Guevara.
Botox works for dynamic wrinkles because it temporarily paralyzes the facial muscles that cause them. Botox injections can treat existing wrinkles but also prevent dynamic wrinkles from forming. It’s a good idea to start getting Botox injections in your late 20s, according to Dr. Guevara. You may want to start even earlier if you have a particularly expressive face.
Still not sure which is the better option for you? Consult a dermatologist.
Article Written By: Jessica Brown, a health and science writer/editor based in Brooklyn, New York. She has written for Prevention magazine, jnj.com, BCRF.org and many other outlets.