How to Embrace Skinimalism, the ‘Less Is More’ Beauty Trend
Medical Review By: Heather Brew, PA-C
Sometimes less is more. Maybe we don’t need to hide our skin under makeup or follow a complicated skin care regimen involving a dozen different products. That’s the thinking behind skinimalism, a minimalist approach to skin care and makeup.
What exactly is skinimalism?
“I think it's about going back to the basics when caring for your skin, but also loving your skin and how it is in everyday life,” said Heather Freeman, PA-C, a board-certified physician assistant at Water’s Edge Dermatology. “I think it's avoiding multiple products and layers of makeup, and being true to your authentic self."
That all sounds well and good, and easier on the piggybank to boot, but how can you feel comfortable enough in your skin to pare down your beauty routine and kiss the heavy foundation goodbye? Freeman offered these tips.
Go back to the big three
Start by going back to basics. A basic skincare routine involves exactly three products: a facial cleanser, a moisturizer and sunscreen.
The cleanser removes dirt, makeup and oil and helps keep breakouts at bay. The moisturizer minimizes water loss, which protects skin from irritants in the environment. Broad-spectrum sunscreen guards against UV damage that can lead to premature aging and skin cancer. (Freeman likes zinc and titanium as active ingredients.)
To fight free radicals caused by sun exposure, also consider a cream or serum containing vitamin C. “I personally like to use a vitamin C serum first and apply my moisturizer on top, then sunscreen,” said Freeman. When it comes to vitamin C, she noted, “You don’t need much.”
From there, you can add products designed to address specific issues that bother you — but there’s value in not going overboard.
“With too many skin care products, we worry about ingredients interacting, and we worry about irritation,” said Freeman.
Signs your skin care routine might be overly elaborate include dryness, redness or burning. “Often, patients come in and I say, ‘You're really irritated, what are you using?’ and they list 20 things. I say, ‘Let's start from the basics again. Let's start with one product at a time to figure out what works best for you.”
Freeman likens using too many skin care products to taking too many medications: Not only are interactions an issue, but some people get overwhelmed and use them incorrectly.
In other cases, she noted, using a multitude of products does work. “Some people do great with a lot of products, as long as they know what they're used for and how to use them.”
Zero in on your skin issues
If you’re concealing your skin because of acne, rosacea, discoloration or some other issue, talk to a qualified skin care provider about what products and treatments to try.
The provider can suggest over-the-counter or prescription topicals that gradually smooth the skin’s texture and improve acne, acne scars and hyperpigmentation (dark spots), three common reasons women wear foundation.
A vitamin C serum, for example, may be ideal for overall texture issues, hyperpigmentation, age spots and fine lines. Prescription glycolic acid or hydroquinone products are used to fight more serious hyperpigmentation. Creams, cleansers, wipes and sprays containing salicylic acid can make pores appear smaller. Certain topicals work to tamp down rosacea symptoms.
A provider can also suggest in-office treatments to help your skin look better bare. A chemical peel, for example, makes skin smoother and softer while minimizing the look of fine lines and brown spots. “Chemical peels have come a long way in the last few years,” said Freeman. Multiple strengths let you choose how aggressive you want to be.
Laser treatments are another option for diminishing wrinkles, discoloration and scars and reducing the appearance of pores. Laser treatment for rosacea is often effective for persistent redness and visible veins.
Get a natural glow
Why use makeup that gives you the look of glowing skin when you can have glowing skin for real?
Start by keeping your skin well moisturized and choosing your moisturizer wisely. A moisturizer that contains hyaluronic acid can plump the skin and give you a fresh, dewy look. Or add a few drops of a hyaluronic acid serum to your regular moisturizer.
Vitamin C, green tea and caffeine are other go-to ingredients. This soothing green tea and witch hazel mist can refresh tired-looking skin and soothe irritation, including irritation from wearing a face mask (wash your face after removing the mask). This multitasking moisturizer, which contains green tea, caffeine and the antioxidant resveratrol, is helpful for calming inflammation as well as diminishing the look of fine lines and pores.
If a healthy glow is your main objective, also consider a chemical peel.
Remember, the goal of skinimalism isn’t flawless skin, it’s natural-looking skin you feel good about.
“People do have imperfections, but we can work through them,” said Freeman. “There are ways to make you feel better about your skin besides covering it with makeup.”
Finally, resist the urge to try every product getting raves on social media. “There are many influencers suggesting different products, and a lot of times they're getting paid to do it,” said Freeman. “Just because a product is trending doesn't mean it's right for everyone.”
Article Written By: Marianne Wait, an award-winning health and wellness writer based in New Jersey.
Vitamin C Serum Benefits: Yes, They’re Real
Medical Review By: Gioconda “Gio” Boaz, PA-C
Vitamin C serum has become one of the most popular skincare products for the face, and for good reason. Who wouldn’t want a serum that can improve the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, fade dark spots, prevent and treat sun damage and give skin a healthy glow? The claims may seem too good to be true, but the benefits are real according to one skin care provider.
“Vitamin C has been known to improve skin for years, but it didn’t get the same amount of attention that other skin care ingredients did until recently,” said Gioconda “Gio” Boaz, PA-C, a board-certified physician assistant at Water’s Edge Dermatology.
“I think vitamin C serum is popular now because more information is surfacing on how it boosts the skin’s natural protection against sun damage, fights inflammation and produces a great cosmetic advantage.”
How vitamin C serum works
Vitamin C improves skin’s appearance in several ways. As an antioxidant, it protects against damage caused by unstable molecules called free radicals. Sun exposure increases free radical production. While your diet provides some vitamin C, using a vitamin C serum increases the concentration of the vitamin in your skin. And unlike sunscreen, it can’t be rubbed off. In fact, once vitamin C is absorbed, the protection it offers seems to last for days.
The vitamin also helps the body synthesize collagen and increases skin cell turnover. This means that dead and damaged skin cells are replaced by new ones more quickly, making skin look brighter.
Vitamin C serum can help address:
- Hyperpigmentation. Increasing cell turnover can lighten sun spots (also called age spots), dark spots caused by acne, and dark patches caused by melasma. “One of the great things about vitamin C is that it’s safe for pregnant women, who are vulnerable to developing melasma,” Boaz said.
- Fine lines and wrinkles. Faster cell turnover combined with increased collagen can make wrinkles less noticeable.
- Sun damage. By neutralizing free radicals, vitamin C reduces and helps prevent sun damage. It also works to prevent the sun’s rays from suppressing the immune system. This immune suppression is thought to play a role in the development of melanoma and non-melanoma skin cancers.
Choosing the best vitamin C serum
Vitamin C serums range in price and the amount of vitamin C they contain. You don’t have to choose one of the pricier options if it’s not in your budget.
“Any vitamin C serum, as long as it’s a “stabilized” vitamin C, is going to be beneficial, and expensive doesn’t always mean better,” Boaz explained.
The amount of vitamin C in serums typically ranges from 5% to 20%. While vitamin C is generally well tolerated, it is acidic and can therefore irritate sensitive skin. Boaz recommends starting off with a lower concentration. Move to a higher concentration if you’re not seeing results and if your skin can tolerate it.
Packaging is also key. Vitamin C degrades quickly, particularly when it’s exposed to light. So, an opaque container is a must.
Application and storage tips
If you have sensitive skin, start by using vitamin C once a day. Apply it in the morning to take advantage of the added protection against sun damage. (Sunscreen is always a must.) For people with sun-damaged skin, Boaz recommends gradually switching to a twice-a-day routine.
Apply vitamin C serum after washing your face and before applying moisturizer and sunscreen. Don’t apply too much serum or you’re wasting your money — three to five drops are plenty.
“It’s normal to feel a brief tingling sensation when you use it. This usually dissipates after a couple of weeks,” said Boaz. “Anything beyond that may mean the serum is too strong for you. It’s also possible that you’re allergic to one of the ingredients.”
To prevent vitamin C serum from degrading, keep it stored in a dark place and replace the cap tightly after use. You can tell when it has degraded by its color. Most serums are pale yellow and turn orange or brown when they spoil. If yours has degraded, it’s time to throw it out.
For best results, apply vitamin C serum every day, Boaz advised. “The protective antioxidants immediately shield your skin. It can take about two months of regular use to start seeing cosmetic results, but it’s definitely worth the wait.”
Article Written By: Jessica Brown is a health and science writer/editor based in Brooklyn, New York. Her work has appeared in Prevention, Johnson & Johnson, the Breast Cancer Research Foundation and many more.
5 Common African American Skin Conditions
Medical Review By: Rachelle Lacey, MD
Medical Review By:
Everyone’s skin is different — dry versus oily, thick versus thin, light versus dark. African American skin is different from Caucasian skin in that the top layer contains more pigment, called melanin. But the differences don’t end there. Certain gene mutations more common in Blacks mean that certain skin conditions are more common, too.
Rachelle Lacey, MD, a dermatologist at Water’s Edge Dermatology and an expert in treating conditions in skin of color, reveals some of the skin problems she sees most in African American patients.
Atopic dermatitis (eczema)
"Atopic dermatitis is something I see more in African American populations, and the reasons are both environmental and genetic,” said Dr. Lacey. “One major cause is due to the change in the filaggrin in the skin.” Filaggrin is a protein in the top layer of skin that’s essential to maintaining the skin’s barrier function and keeping skin hydrated. A mutation in the gene that codes filaggrin causes a filaggrin deficiency.
African Americans are not only more prone to eczema, but they’re also more prone to severe cases of eczema. In dark skin tones, an eczema rash may appear darker brown, purple or grey instead of red.
Read about eczema treatments here.
Keloids and hypertrophic scars
African American skin may contain gene mutations that increase the expression of fibroblasts in scar tissue. fibroblasts are cells that create collagen. An excess of collagen makes skin much more vulnerable to scar-like formations, including keloids and hypertrophic scars.
Keloids are raised, firm growths of tissue that form over and beyond a wound, such a burn, cut, incision, acne blemish, injection site or ear piercing. They can occur anywhere on the body, but they often develop in less fatty areas, such as on the face, neck, earlobe, chest or shoulders. They can grow much larger than the original wound and may be painful or itchy.
Hypertrophic scars are similar but they don’t typically grow beyond the site of the injury. They may continue to thicken for several months, but they may slightly flatten over a long period of time.
Read about keloid and hypertrophic scar treatments here.
Hidradenitis suppurativa
In hidradenitis suppurativa, also called acne inversa, cyst-like bumps develop in hair follicles in areas where the skin rubs together, such as the underarms, groin, between the buttocks and under the breasts. The bumps can grow deep into the skin. “A lot of times, they can be very painful, and they can drain fluid onto clothing,” said Dr. Lacey. Deep scars can form as the bumps heal.
Tunnels, known as sinus tracts, may develop under the skin between bumps, and they may produce foul-smelling pus if the skin breaks. Sinus tracks also contribute to scarring.
Hidradenitis suppurativa is chronic, but your dermatologist can develop a treatment plan to reduce and help manage flares.
Read about hidradenitis suppurativa treatments here.
Melasma
Melasma, which mostly affects women, causes dark patches, usually on the face. “It’s definitely more noticeable in darker skin types. Often, you can have even more darkening of the cheeks and the forehead because of the increased pigmentation that is naturally found in skin of color,” said Dr. Lacey. “And it can be harder to treat as well.”
Melasma can run in families. Triggers include pregnancy, birth control pills, hormone therapy and sun exposure. In dark-skinned people, skin irritation is another possible trigger, so choosing gentle skin care products is important.
Read about melasma treatments here.
Hyperpigmentation
African American skin contains more melanosomes, tiny structures within melanocytes that make pigment. Melanosomes are also less clustered together within melanocytes and there is also increased transmission of melanin to the surface of the skin. That’s the reason the skin of color appears darker.
As a result, said, Dr. Lacey, “rashes and other skin issues can look a little different. They may also resolve and heal differently. You may have leftover hyperpigmentation that lasts for months once the issue resolves.” In hyperpigmentation, darker patches or spots develop.
“In African American patients, hyperpigmentation is one of the most common issues I see,” said Dr. Lacey.
One type of hyperpigmentation, known as post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH), can occur as a result of inflammatory acne or even harsh products used to treat it. “You can also get hyperpigmentation as a result of atopic dermatitis, bug bites and even psoriasis,” said Dr. Lacey.
Read about hyperpigmentation treatments here and treating acne in dark skin here.
Whatever skin problem you face, it is important to consult a dermatologist who has experience treating patients with your skin tone to avoid creating new problems, including scarring, hyperpigmentation and hypopigmentation (areas of lighter skin). An experienced, knowledgeable provider can also suggest products and procedures to help your skin look and feel its best.
Article Written By: Marianne Wait, an award-winning health and wellness writer based in New Jersey.
Dark Spots & Hyperpigmentation
No one wants dark spots and skin discoloration, but the fact is millions of Americans have them. Hyperpigmentation is a general term that refers to a condition where the skin is discolored or darkened. Dark spots caused by hyperpigmentation can make you look older and can be the result of several factors including acne scarring, sun damage or inflammation from an eczema flare-up. Melasma is a type of hyperpigmentation that appears as a form of skin discoloration and is made worse by sun exposure. It affects more than five million Americans, mostly women. In order to properly treat these conditions, it’s important to understand the differences between them.
Hyperpigmentation
Hyperpigmentation includes any darkening of the skin. Acne, sun exposure, and skin rashes can stimulate the pigment-making cells of the skin, called melanocytes. When that happens, those cells often produce a surplus of pigment into lower levels of skin, causing a dark spot. The deeper the pigment, the harder it is to treat. It works much in the same way as a tattoo. The severity of skin darkening varies. When skin is consistently exposed to harmful UV rays without sunscreen protection, it will be more difficult to treat than a dark spot left over from a pimple that has been shielded from the sun.
Melasma
Melasma is a type of hyperpigmentation, more commonly seen in women and especially women with darker skin tones. It is believed to be triggered by UV exposure and hormones that increase during pregnancy and after starting oral contraceptive use or other hormonal therapies, which can make melasma tougher to treat than traditional hyperpigmentation.
You can usually tell if you have melasma based on the appearance of the spot, which typically appears as symmetric blotchy hyperpigmented patches on the face, often on the cheeks, nose, forehead, chin, and upper lip. It can occur on the neck and forearms as well as other parts of the body prone to sun exposure. Melasma generally is worse in the summer and improves in winter. It can also appear during pregnancy or after starting birth control or other hormonal treatments. Visible light and heat often contribute to melasma spreading. Some dermatologists recommend using makeup with iron oxide to help block visible light.
Treatment
Hyperpigmentation can be treated using chemical peels or with a variety of over-the-counter products that contain skin brighteners such as vitamin C, kojic acid, niacinamide, hydroquinone, and azelaic acid. Melasma is more difficult to treat. Because melasma remedies that work for one person do not necessarily work for another, it is difficult to identify one effective treatment. Many dermatologists recommend a combination of sunscreen to protect the skin, brightening ingredients, and laser treatments for patients with melasma.
Melasma often responds to treatment with lasers in low energy, such as the Clear + Brilliant laser which uses low energy fractionated technology for melasma, sun damage, and skin texture. At least three treatments are needed monthly followed up by treatment every six months to maintain results. Talk with your dermatologist to determine the right plan for your skin.
Skin Protection
Always use sunscreen to protect your skin. Use a moisturizer with sunscreen and apply sunscreen with an SPF of 30 or higher every two hours when you plan to be in the sun or even inside sitting near a window. Hyperpigmentation and melasma can likely be avoided by incorporating sunscreen into your daily skin regimen.
At Water’s Edge Dermatology, our board-certified physicians and medical support team can create an effective treatment plan to treat your hyperpigmentation or melasma.