How to Embrace Skinimalism, the ‘Less Is More’ Beauty Trend
Medical Review By: Heather Brew, PA-C
Sometimes less is more. Maybe we don’t need to hide our skin under makeup or follow a complicated skin care regimen involving a dozen different products. That’s the thinking behind skinimalism, a minimalist approach to skin care and makeup.
What exactly is skinimalism?
“I think it's about going back to the basics when caring for your skin, but also loving your skin and how it is in everyday life,” said Heather Freeman, PA-C, a board-certified physician assistant at Water’s Edge Dermatology. “I think it's avoiding multiple products and layers of makeup, and being true to your authentic self."
That all sounds well and good, and easier on the piggybank to boot, but how can you feel comfortable enough in your skin to pare down your beauty routine and kiss the heavy foundation goodbye? Freeman offered these tips.
Go back to the big three
Start by going back to basics. A basic skincare routine involves exactly three products: a facial cleanser, a moisturizer and sunscreen.
The cleanser removes dirt, makeup and oil and helps keep breakouts at bay. The moisturizer minimizes water loss, which protects skin from irritants in the environment. Broad-spectrum sunscreen guards against UV damage that can lead to premature aging and skin cancer. (Freeman likes zinc and titanium as active ingredients.)
To fight free radicals caused by sun exposure, also consider a cream or serum containing vitamin C. “I personally like to use a vitamin C serum first and apply my moisturizer on top, then sunscreen,” said Freeman. When it comes to vitamin C, she noted, “You don’t need much.”
From there, you can add products designed to address specific issues that bother you — but there’s value in not going overboard.
“With too many skin care products, we worry about ingredients interacting, and we worry about irritation,” said Freeman.
Signs your skin care routine might be overly elaborate include dryness, redness or burning. “Often, patients come in and I say, ‘You're really irritated, what are you using?’ and they list 20 things. I say, ‘Let's start from the basics again. Let's start with one product at a time to figure out what works best for you.”
Freeman likens using too many skin care products to taking too many medications: Not only are interactions an issue, but some people get overwhelmed and use them incorrectly.
In other cases, she noted, using a multitude of products does work. “Some people do great with a lot of products, as long as they know what they're used for and how to use them.”
Zero in on your skin issues
If you’re concealing your skin because of acne, rosacea, discoloration or some other issue, talk to a qualified skin care provider about what products and treatments to try.
The provider can suggest over-the-counter or prescription topicals that gradually smooth the skin’s texture and improve acne, acne scars and hyperpigmentation (dark spots), three common reasons women wear foundation.
A vitamin C serum, for example, may be ideal for overall texture issues, hyperpigmentation, age spots and fine lines. Prescription glycolic acid or hydroquinone products are used to fight more serious hyperpigmentation. Creams, cleansers, wipes and sprays containing salicylic acid can make pores appear smaller. Certain topicals work to tamp down rosacea symptoms.
A provider can also suggest in-office treatments to help your skin look better bare. A chemical peel, for example, makes skin smoother and softer while minimizing the look of fine lines and brown spots. “Chemical peels have come a long way in the last few years,” said Freeman. Multiple strengths let you choose how aggressive you want to be.
Laser treatments are another option for diminishing wrinkles, discoloration and scars and reducing the appearance of pores. Laser treatment for rosacea is often effective for persistent redness and visible veins.
Get a natural glow
Why use makeup that gives you the look of glowing skin when you can have glowing skin for real?
Start by keeping your skin well moisturized and choosing your moisturizer wisely. A moisturizer that contains hyaluronic acid can plump the skin and give you a fresh, dewy look. Or add a few drops of a hyaluronic acid serum to your regular moisturizer.
Vitamin C, green tea and caffeine are other go-to ingredients. This soothing green tea and witch hazel mist can refresh tired-looking skin and soothe irritation, including irritation from wearing a face mask (wash your face after removing the mask). This multitasking moisturizer, which contains green tea, caffeine and the antioxidant resveratrol, is helpful for calming inflammation as well as diminishing the look of fine lines and pores.
If a healthy glow is your main objective, also consider a chemical peel.
Remember, the goal of skinimalism isn’t flawless skin, it’s natural-looking skin you feel good about.
“People do have imperfections, but we can work through them,” said Freeman. “There are ways to make you feel better about your skin besides covering it with makeup.”
Finally, resist the urge to try every product getting raves on social media. “There are many influencers suggesting different products, and a lot of times they're getting paid to do it,” said Freeman. “Just because a product is trending doesn't mean it's right for everyone.”
Article Written By: Marianne Wait, an award-winning health and wellness writer based in New Jersey.
What Causes Itchy Skin at Night?
Medical review by Marianne Pineda, PA-C
How many times has this happened to you: You’re in bed, trying to wind down and drift into sleep, and suddenly your skin starts itching — maybe so much so that it’s hard to fall asleep or stay asleep.
You’re not alone. Itchy skin at night, which doctors call nocturnal pruritus, is fairly common. The causes are not completely understood, but these factors play a role.
Circadian rhythm
You can blame nocturnal itching in part on your body’s circadian rhythms. These are cycles that repeat every 24 hours, controlled by a “master clock” in the brain. Circadian rhythms influence sleepiness and wakefulness, hormonal activity, hunger, digestion and body temperature, among other things.
In the evening, the body releases more heat, and blood flow to the skin increases, which may contribute to nighttime itching. In addition, skin loses water at night, resulting in dryness that can make you itchy. That water loss is likely due to nighttime changes in the skin’s barrier function, which could also let in more irritants.
Inflammation may also play a role. At night, the body releases more cytokines, which are immune system proteins that create inflammation. This can cause itching or make itching worse. At the same time, the body’s production of corticosteroids, which tame inflammation, declines.
It’s also possible that you simply notice itching more when you’re in bed trying to sleep than when you’re busy and distracted during the day.
Health conditions
Itching related to certain health conditions can be worse at night.
Common skin conditions. These include psoriasis, eczema and dry skin. Older people are more susceptible to nighttime itching in part because the skin tends to dry out with age.
Mental health issues. Stress and anxiety can contribute to nighttime itching, as can depression and schizophrenia.
Infestations. Bed bugs, lice and scabies all cause itching, especially at night. Bed bugs feast when you’re in bed. Lice and scabies mites are also more active at night.
Hormones. Pregnancy, menopause and hyperthyroidism (too much thyroid hormone) or hypothyroidism (too little thyroid hormone) can contribute to nighttime itching.
Allergies. A food allergy could cause skin to itch at night.
Iron deficiency anemia. Some people with iron deficiency anemia have itchy skin. Other symptoms include tiredness, pale skin, shortness of breath and fast heartbeat.
Chronic idiopathic pruritus. This condition, whose name means chronic itching with no known cause, can be especially challenging because it can significantly worsen a person’s quality of life, and yet the best treatments remain unknown. A team that includes an allergist, an immunologist and a dermatologist can work together and order lab tests, such as blood tests and even chest X-rays, to identify possible underlying triggers.
In some cases, itching, including nighttime itching, can be a sign of a serious condition such as liver or kidney disease, HIV or certain cancers such as leukemia and lymphoma. It can also stem from nerve problems, such as diabetic neuropathy (nerve damage from diabetes), multiple sclerosis or shingles.
Opioids, used to treat serious pain, can also cause itching.
Home remedies for nighttime itching
Oftentimes, simple home remedies can ease the itching.
- Avoid caffeine and alcohol in the evening, since they widen blood vessels, which sends more blood to the skin.
- If you use a scented soap or deodorant soap, switch to a gentle, fragrance-free moisturizing soap or non-soap cleanser.
- Apply a fragrance-free, alcohol-free moisturizing lotion such as Cetaphil, Eucerin or CeraVe during the day and after bathing.
- Before bedtime, taking a lukewarm shower or bath (try adding colloidal oatmeal) or applying cool compresses to your skin can be helpful.
- Consider running a fan in your bedroom to distract you from the itch. Keep your bedroom cool (below 70°F), and use a humidifier if the air is too dry.
- Wear loose pajamas made of a soft material such as cotton or silk.
- If you think stress might be contributing to your itching, try yoga, meditation, stretching, deep breathing or progressive muscle relaxation before bed.
Scratching can make itching worse, but the urge to scratch can be hard to resist. If you can’t keep yourself from scratching, trim your fingernails and consider wearing cotton gloves to bed.
When to see a doctor
If your nighttime itching lasts longer than two weeks and home remedies don’t help, talk to your doctor. Itching that interferes with your sleep, affects your entire body or is accompanied by other symptoms such as fever, tiredness or weight loss should be evaluated.
Treatment depends on the cause of the itching. Your doctor may recommend over-the-counter medications such as corticosteroid cream, allergy medication or melatonin to help you sleep.
In some cases, prescription medication may be necessary. Options include stronger corticosteroid creams and pills, antidepressants that have a sedative effect, immunosuppressants (to reduce inflammation), hormone replacement therapy and various drugs that help treat insomnia and reduce anxiety or itching.
Written by Jessica Brown, a health and science writer/editor based in Brooklyn, New York. She has written for Prevention magazine, jnj.com, BCRF.org and many other outlets.
What Are the White Spots on My Skin?
Medical review by Rachelle Lacey, MD
White spots on the skin are usually a cosmetic problem. They can be just as noticeable and bothersome as dark spots, and they may itch, but in most cases they are harmless. That said, whenever you notice a change in your skin, it’s always smart to see a dermatologist.
Here are a few of the skin conditions that can cause white spots on the skin.
(Pictured above: Arm with idiopathic guttate hypomelanosis)
Idiopathic Guttate Hypomelanosis
Sometimes referred to as “reverse freckles,” idiopathic guttate hypomelanosis (IGH) is a condition in which small (1 to 5 millimeter) flat spots of white skin called hypopigmentedmacules develop. They commonly appear on sun-exposed areas, such as the legs and forearms. The risk of developing IGH increases with age; most people who have it are over 40.
The cause of IGH is unknown, though factors such as chronic sun exposure and genetics may play a role. People with fair skin are more prone to IGH, but the patches are more noticeable on dark skin.
How it’s treated: The macules are benign and don’t have to be removed. A consistently effective treatment has yet to be discovered. Cryotherapy is sometimes used, with mixed results. In some cases, the cryotherapy itself can cause light or dark spots. Practicing sun protection, including using a broad-spectrum sunscreen with SPF 30 or more and wearing protective clothing, can help prevent the spots from becoming more noticeable and also help prevent new spots from forming.
Milia
White spots in the form of hard, raised bumps could be milia, which are small, pimple-like cysts. Milia tend to occur in clusters on the face, usually around the eyes or on the forehead, but they can appear anywhere.
The bumps, which can also be yellowish, usually form when dead skin cells build up under the top layer of the skin. They are more common in people who have acne and blackheads. Other causes include an injury to the skin, such as a burn, sunburn or blistering rash, and using topical corticosteroids for a long period.
How it’s treated: Milia are harmless and don’t need treatment. They may go away on their own, but if they don’t, your skin care provider can remove them. (You can’t “pop” them like a pimple.) Treatment options include chemical peels, dermabrasion, laser ablation, deroofing (removing the top of the cyst with a needle or small scalpel and extracting the contents) and cryotherapy (freezing).
Tinea Versicolor
\Also called pityriasis versicolor, this fungal infection can lead to patches of skin that are whiter, pinker or darker than your normal complexion. It’s common in tropical climates. The fungus isn’t harmful and can be found on healthy skin. It becomes a problem only if it overgrows. Tinea versicolor can also cause itching and scaly skin.
The condition is more common in teenagers and young adults and typically affects the torso and shoulders. Triggers include hot and humid weather, oily skin, hormone changes and a weak immune system.
How it’s treated: Cleansing the affected areas with dandruff shampoo and using an anti-fungal cream or taking anti-fungal medication can help restore your normal pigmentation, though it can take several months after beginning treatment for the normal skin color to return. Tinea versicolor often recurs, so your doctor may recommend maintenance treatments to prevent it from coming back.
Pityriasis Alba
This chronic skin condition, which usually occurs in children and teens, causes round or oval patches that may be red or pink, turning whiter over time. The patches may be scaly and may itch. They most commonly develop on the face. The cause of the condition is unknown, though it may be a sign of a skin condition such as eczema. Pityriasis alba is associated with dry skin, asthma and allergic rhinitis (allergies).
How it’s treated: Pityriasis alba may go away on its own, though it can take several years to do so. Petroleum jelly or a moisturizer with emollients can lessen any scaling. If the skin is also inflamed, red and itchy, see your dermatologist. The doctor may recommend using a corticosteroid cream or a non-steroidal cream.
Vitiligo
People with this disease develop white patches on their skin that may enlarge over time. Vitiligo can affect anyone but is more noticeable on darker skin. Most people have non-segmental vitiligo, which affects both sides of the body and often begins on the feet, hands or around the eyes and mouth. Other types of vitiligo affect just one or a few body parts or may cover most of the body.
The loss of color occurs when cells that produce melanin, skin’s natural pigment, die or stop working. It’s not clear what triggers vitiligo, but it may be an autoimmune disease in which the body attacks its own pigment-making cells. Genetics may play a role. There is also an association between thyroid disease, diabetes and vitiligo. Sometimes, a severe sunburn, skin trauma or a period of severe emotional stress can trigger vitiligo or make it worse.
How it’s treated: Vitiligo doesn’t threaten a person’s physical health but it can cause emotional distress. There is no cure, but some treatments aim to restore normal skin color. These include anti-inflammatory creams, oral corticosteroids and forms of light therapy called psoralen plus ultraviolet-A (PUVA) and narrow band UV-B (NB-UVB). If other treatments don’t work, surgery in the form of skin grafting or pigment cell grafting may be a course of last resort. Treatments in the form of oral and topical medications known as a JAK inhibitor are available. These medications improve vitiligo by tamping down the immune system and blocking inflammatory pathways.
Lichen Sclerosus
This uncommon skin condition typically affects females before puberty or after menopause, though anyone can develop it. Small white patches develop and grow over time, usually in the genital and anal area, though they can appear on the upper body, breasts and upper arms. Other symptoms include itching, pain, bleeding, and blisters.
The causes of lichen sclerosus aren’t well understood, but it may be the result of genetics, an overactive autoimmune system, hormone imbalances or an injury that damages or scars the skin.
How it’s treated: If you suspect you have lichen sclerosus, see your doctor. Lichen sclerosus needs to be treated because the patches can scar and interfere with urination and sex. There’s also a very small chance that the patches could become cancerous. Corticosteroid creams and ointments are the most common form of treatment. Children who develop lichen sclerosus are often fortunate enough to outgrow the condition.
No matter the cause of your white spots, if they appear in areas that see the sun, reducing sun exposure and wearing sunscreen is critically important.
Written by Jessica Brown is a health and science writer/editor based in Brooklyn, New York. Her work has appeared in Prevention, Johnson & Johnson, the Breast Cancer Research Foundation and many more.
Lotion vs. Cream vs. Ointment: Which to Use When
Medical review by Jennifer Rivera, APRN
Creams, lotions, ointments — they’re all more or less the same, right? Wrong. If you use one moisturizing product for everything, you could be missing out on more effective treatment, whether you’re battling dry skin, oily skin, cracked heels, chapped lips, psoriasis, or other skin challenges.
To know when to use a lotion vs. a cream vs. an ointment helps to understand the differences. The ingredients vary, but all three are ultimately a combination of water and oil in different ratios. Those ratios determine how moisturizing they are, how well they prevent the body’s own moisture from evaporating from the skin, and how light or heavy they feel.
Lotion vs. cream
The main difference between a lotion and a cream is the water content, which also dictates the thickness.
Lotions
Lotions contain more water than creams and are, therefore, thinner. They are typically formulated with lightweight ingredients such as hyaluronic acid, which is hydrating and skin-plumping without leaving a residue or clogging pores, resulting in more frequent applications.
Uses: Lotion is best for people with normal to oily skin and those who live in warm, humid climates. Some lotions are oil-free. Lighter moisturizing ingredients, such as glycerin and hyaluronic acid, are used instead. These can be a good choice if you have acne-prone skin.
Tip: Because they contain more water, lotions require more preservatives. If your lotion irritates your skin, it could be the preservative. Try another brand, or switch to a cream. For best absorption, apply within 5 min of showering on slightly damp skin.
Recommended products:
- Elta MD UV Clear with Broad-Spectrum SPF 46 (Face: acne/rosacea/oily)
- Elta MD UV Daily Broad-Spectrum SPF 40 (Face: Normal/Combination)
- Wederm 15% Glycolic Body Lotion (body)
- Vanicream Moisturizing Lotion (face and body)
- Aveeno Daily Moisturizing Sheer Hydration Lotion (body)
- Eucerin Advanced Repair Lotion (Body and face)
Creams
Creams are thicker than lotions because they contain more oil — typically, they are composed of about half oil and half water. They also contain heavier ingredients, such as lanolin and shea butter. Creams absorb into the skin less rapidly than lotions. Most creams come in a jar or a squeeze tube versus a pump bottle.
In addition to emollients (fats and oils that soften skin) and/or humectants (substances that hydrate the skin by attracting water from deeper layers), some creams contain occlusives, heavy ingredients that form a film, or barrier between the skin and the environment, which prevents moisture from escaping.
Uses: Reach for cream if you have dry skin, sensitive skin or you live in a cold or dry climate. Creams are also helpful for rough spots such as the elbows and heels and for dry hands. Because the skin produces less natural oil with age, many anti-aging face moisturizers come in cream formulas. Products intended to treat skin conditions such as rashes and eczema are also often creams.
Tip: Creams that contain ceramides, such as CeraVe Moisturizing Cream, help shore up the skin’s barrier function. If you’re developing irritation from wearing a face mask, try applying a cream that contains a ceramide before you put your mask on.
Recommended products:
- Wederm Restorative Lipid Replenishing Cream (face)
- Olay Regenerist Ultra Rich Moisturizer (face)
- Eucerin Original Healing Cream (body)
- CeraVe Moisturizing Cream (body)
- Eucerin Advanced Repair Hand Cream (hands)
Balms
Balms are thicker than creams but not quite as thick as ointments. Unlike creams, they don’t contain water. Their texture is typically paste-like or waxy. Beeswax is a common ingredient.
Uses: Lip and foot balm are among the most common balms. Many anti-chafing and blister-blocking products are available as balms.
Tip: For men with dry skin, beard balm is a great way to keep the skin under a beard moisturized.
Recommended products:
- Aveeno Cracked Skin Relief CICA Balm
- Aveeno Eczema Therapy Itch Relief Balm
Ointment vs. cream
Creams are thicker than lotions, and ointments are thicker still, and greasier. An occlusive such as mineral oil or petrolatum (petroleum jelly) is the main ingredient. Medicated products such as topical antibiotics often come in ointment form because ointments stay on the skin longer.
Uses: Ointments are beneficial for very dry, chapped or cracked areas of skin, such as dry heels and psoriasis patches. The ointment is also a good choice for people whose hands are very dry and chapped due to frequent hand-washing. For dry, chapped lips, ointments keep moisture sealed in longer than waxes or balms do. An ointment may be applied to a minor wound before a bandage is placed on it to help seal in moisture, which aids in healing.
Tip: If you find ointments too greasy to use during the day, use a cream during the day and an ointment at night, under a pair of cotton gloves or socks. For extreme hydration, an ointment can be applied under occlusion with the guidance of your healthcare professional.
Recommended products:
- Aquaphor Healing Ointment
- Vaseline Healing Jelly Original
- Vanicream Moisturizing Ointment
- CeraVe Healing Ointment
- Vaseline Lip Therapy
- Neosporin Lip Health Overnight Renewal Therapy
Written by Jessica Brown, a health and science writer/editor based in Brooklyn, New York. Her work has appeared in Prevention, Johnson & Johnson, the Breast Cancer Research Foundation, and many more.
Five Skin Problems People With Cancer May Experience
In recent years, millions of people have been able to take advantage of new treatments for cancer, such as targeted therapy drugs, which block tumor cell formation. While older chemotherapy procedures killed every cell that divided, this new targeted method allows oncologists to attack specific mutations. This is not only more effective, but significantly reduces the number of negative side effects the average patient experiences, including infections and drops in blood cell counts. However, some of these targeted therapies are aimed at molecules that fuel both cancer cell growth and the normal development of skin, hair and nails, causing a variety of skin problems instead. If you are undergoing targeted treatment for cancer, talk to your dermatologist if you notice any of the following symptoms.
Severe Rashes
Rashes are one of the most common side effects of targeted therapy, and typically appear on the face and upper body. Patients usually report itchiness, flaky skin, sunburn-like sensations and more, which can sometimes be severe enough to cause significant discomfort. However, in some cases, this rash might actually be a Candida infection, or yeast infection, which can spread to the lungs, liver and skin if the patient has a weakened immune system. If you notice red, itchy patches on your skin, speak to your dermatologist immediately.
Rough, Scaly Cancerous Growths
There are over 3.5 million non-melanoma skin cancers diagnosed in more than two million Americans every year. However, cancer patients sometimes find that they develop unusual skin growths which can become new cancerous growths. As a result, cancer patients should schedule regular appointments at a dermatologist clinic to ensure that they do not need treatment for skin cancer as well.
Changes to the Hair and Eyelashes
Men have a 50% chance of losing their hair by their 50th birthday for entirely natural reasons. However, targeted therapy drugs can also cause hair loss across the scalp and body, graying, increased growth and curling of the eyelashes and eyebrows and increased facial hair growth. Because dermatologists also treat conditions of the nails and scalp, including hair loss, they can be an important resource during this stressful time.
Strange Wounds
Some cancers (especially breast, head and neck cancers) spread to the skin and cause ulcerating wounds, or injuries that don't heal. This is an uncommon symptom, but these wounds must be carefully monitored and treated by a dermatologist specialist.
Dark, Brittle Nails
As previously mentioned, dermatologists also treat conditions of the nail and scalp. This can be extremely helpful, as many cancer patients develop inflammation and fissures around their finger and toenails. While this redness and soreness can often be treated with over-the-counter treatments used to strengthen nails, they should be carefully monitored by a doctor.
Have you noticed any of these symptoms while undergoing targeted therapy for cancer? If so, contact a local dermatologist in your area today to discuss your symptoms and prevent further health problems.