What Is a Facial?
Medical Review By: Alyse Penninger, LMA
If you’ve never gotten a facial, you may be missing out. But what exactly is a facial?
A facial is a deep cleansing treatment that sloughs away dead skin cells and removes debris from deep in your pores. The techniques and products used vary depending on the type of facial and the provider. Facials are best performed by a licensed aesthetician and may include targeted treatments such as dermaplaning or microdermabrasion.
“When you get a facial, you’re treated with medical-grade products that are designed to penetrate the epidermis and affect the deeper layers of skin, unlike drugstore products that sit on top of your skin,” says Alyse Penninger, a licensed medical aesthetician at Water’s Edge Dermatology. “You also get the expertise of an aesthetician, who evaluates your skin and tailors the products and techniques included in the facial to best address your concerns.”
An aesthetician can tailor your facial to achieve the results you want. Here are some of the types of facials commonly offered by dermatology practices.
Classic facial
A classic facial typically involves four steps: cleansing, exfoliating to remove dead skin cells, extracting debris from your pores and hydration.
“If your pores are very clogged, your aesthetician may also steam your face before doing extractions,” said Penninger. “This softens your epidermis, which makes it easier to remove the debris that’s deep in your pores.”
Benefits of a classic facial include clearer, more radiant skin. Anyone can get a classic facial, regardless of skin type, since it’s easy to customize the products used. If your skin is oily, for example, your aesthetician will hydrate your skin with moisturizers that are lighter than those used for people with normal to dry skin.
When to get one: Every four to six weeks.
Acne/milia facial
If you have acne or milia — small, hard bumps that develop under the top layer of skin — you may be tempted to “pop” them yourself. But it’s much safer and more effective to get a facial designed for these concerns.
The reason: When you get an acne or milia facial, your aesthetician will use special tools, such as a lancet, to gently break the skin and expel the contents of the lesion or milia with minimal pressure. To draw out blackheads and whiteheads, the aesthetician may also use ultrasonic tools, which create gentle vibrations in the skin.
“People are sometimes tempted to squeeze acne themselves, but they often apply too much force,” Penninger says. “This can cause irritation and broken capillaries, making skin look even more rough and blotchy.” Squeezing won’t get rid of milia due to their pearl-like hardness and location beneath the surface of the skin.
When to get one: Every four weeks. People with severe acne can get one more often.
Oxygen therapy facial
This type of facial is appropriate for all skin types, though it’s particularly well suited to dry skin. After cleansing and exfoliating your face, the aesthetician uses a wand-like instrument to deliver streams of pressurized oxygen combined with hydrating serums to the skin. This allows the serums to penetrate more deeply.
“Oxygen therapy facials hydrate and plump your skin, making it look more lifted and firm and diminishing fine lines,” Penninger said.
When to get one: Every four to six weeks.
Dermaplaning
Dermaplaning can be added on to any facial. The aesthetician uses a small surgical blade to exfoliate the top layer of skin and remove peach fuzz.
“People love to get dermaplaning before special events because it makes skin look so smooth, almost like it’s airbrushed,” Penninger said.
Your skin may look red for a few days after treatment, so it’s best to schedule the treatment a few days before a special event.
When to get it: Every three to four weeks.
Microdermabrasion
Microdermabrasion delivers more powerful exfoliation compared to classic facials. The aesthetician uses a small, mildly abrasive tool to remove the top layer of skin, diminishing age spots, hyperpigmentation, acne scars and enlarged pores. Microdermabrasion also causes the collagen in skin to thicken, making your face look tighter and smoother.
For more aggressive treatment of hyperpigmentation, fine lines, wrinkles, acne scars and sun damage, your provider might recommend a chemical peel, which is not generally performed in conjunction with a facial. Chemical peels use an acid to slough off the top layers of skin.
When to get it: Twice a month at first, then once a month to maintain the results. Get a mild- or moderate-strength chemical peel once every six to 12 months. Get a deep peel once in your life.
HydraFacial
In this type of facial, the aesthetician uses a wand-like device to perform every step of the treatment. Cleansing and exfoliating are combined into one step; the wand dispenses clearing serum to your face and washes away dead skin cells with a special spiral tip. Next, the aesthetician uses the wand to apply a gentle peel that loosens the debris in your pores, then uses suction to remove the debris. Last, the wand delivers antioxidants and peptides (amino acids that make skin look more plump and firm) to your skin.
While the name implies that the treatment is best for people with dry skin, anyone can get a HydraFacial because the serums used can be tailored to your skin type, Penninger said. Benefits include a brighter, more even complexion and less-noticeable fine lines.
When to get it: Every two to four weeks depending on your skin type.
Article Written By: Jessica Brown, a health and science writer/editor based in Brooklyn, New York. She has written for Prevention magazine, jnj.com, BCRF.org and many other outlets.
What Is a PRP Facial and What Can it Do For Your Skin?
Medical Review By: Emmanuel Loucas, MD
Is your skin in need of a little rejuvenation? If you’re looking to brighten a dull complexion, tighten sagging skin or lessen the appearance of scars, wrinkles or sun damage, a relatively new treatment called a PRP facial, popularly known as a vampire facial, could be just the ticket.
What is a PRP facial?
PRP stands for platelet-rich plasma. In a PRP facial, plasma is taken from your own blood and then injected into your skin. That plasma is rich in platelets that contain proteins called growth factors.
“These growth factors stimulate fibroblasts, which are cells in the skin that produce collagen,” said Emmanuel Loucas, MD, a board-certified dermatologist at Water’s Edge Dermatology. “When you get PRP therapy, new collagen forms and plumps the skin, making it smoother and minimizing the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles and scars.” PRP therapy also boosts production of elastin, which increases skin’s elasticity.
PRP injections have been used for decades to help athletes heal from injuries. Only more recently have skin care providers begun using PRP injections for facial rejuvenation.
“Patients really like PRP therapy because it’s so natural,” said Dr. Loucas. “You’re being treated with platelets taken from your own blood.”
What to expect
When you arrive at your appointment, the doctor will draw 1 to 2 ounces of blood by placing a needle in your arm. The needle contains a small amount of anticoagulant to prevent the blood from clotting, so it may sting a little, Dr. Loucas said.
The blood is placed in a centrifuge to separate it into various components. The plasma rises to the top, and the lower part of the plasma layer, which is especially rich in platelets, is what is used for the injections.
The number of injections depends on the size of the area treated, but at least a couple of dozen injections with a small needle are typically needed for best results. Don’t worry, topical and injectable anesthetics can be used to minimize any discomfort.
Microneedling with PRP
In some cases, your provider may recommend adding microneedling to your treatment. Microneedling with PRP is performed by spreading the PRP on the skin and using a dermaroller (which resembles a mini paint roller coated with tiny needles) to create shallow pricks in the skin. The PRP enters the skin through these pricks. Microneedling on its own also boosts collagen production.
Some doctors use both injections and microneedling. “Combining the two approaches can lead to better results because you’re triggering collagen production in both the dermis [the thick layer of skin beneath the epidermis] and the epidermis,” Dr. Loucas explained.
PRP facial downtime
Recovery from a PRP facial is brief. The treated areas of skin may be a little red at first, but the redness fades in a few hours. You may experience minor swelling for a couple of days. Microneedling may also cause slight bruising, which clears up within four or five days.
How many treatments are needed?
A full course of PRP therapy is three treatment sessions spaced eight weeks apart. Improvement builds over time as collagen production increases. You’ll see the most improvement several weeks after you’ve had all three sessions, but many patients say they can see a difference after just one session, according to Dr. Loucas.
To maintain optimal results, consider undergoing maintenance treatments every six to 12 months.
The best candidates for PRP therapy
PRP facials work best when the skin still has a fair amount of collagen in it, said Dr. Loucas. “PRP isn’t very effective once the skin is very thin and has lost elasticity.”
Most people can safely undergo PRP treatments. Those who have severe inflammation in the area to be treated from a condition such as eczema or psoriasis should wait until the inflammation is cleared. People with a severe immune system disorder should talk with their doctor before undergoing treatment.
Possible risks and side effects
Because it uses your own plasma, PRP treatment is generally safe and well-tolerated. While there’s a risk of infection whenever you puncture the skin, the provider takes steps to minimize it. Other risks include injury to the blood vessels or nerves, calcification at the injection site and development of scar tissue.
When it comes to choosing a provider for your PRP facial, training and experience counts.
“There is an art to performing PRP therapy, so you really want to see a knowledgeable provider who won’t administer it robotically,” Dr. Loucas. “That way, you’ll get the best results for your money.”
Article Written By: Jessica Brown, a health and science writer/editor based in Brooklyn, New York. She has written for Prevention magazine, jnj.com, BCRF.org and many other outlets.