Types of Facials: HydraFacial vs. Microdermabrasion Facial
Medically reviewed by: Shawna Sopher, Licensed Medical Aesthetician
Tired of dealing with rough-textured skin that makes you look older? Many types of facials can help skin look smoother, but if you’re looking for a more powerful, medical grade cosmetic treatment, a microdermabrasion facial or HydraFacial MD is the way to go. Dermatologists increasingly recommend a HydraFacial vs. microdermabrasion because it’s a gentler and more customizable method of skin resurfacing.
“Both treatments make your face look smoother by exfoliating the top layer of skin,” said Shawna Sopher, a licensed medical aesthetician at Water’s Edge Dermatology. “But HydraFacials are often preferred because they’re more effective at treating certain skin issues, such as hyperpigmentation. And unlike a microdermabrasion facial, HydraFacial MD is safe for nearly all skin types.”
Here are the details on both types of facial.
What is microdermabrasion?
A microdermabrasion facial exfoliates the skin in a way that Sopher likens to sandblasting. During a treatment session, the provider removes the top layer skin with a pen-like device that has either a diamond tip that “sands” the skin or a tip that sprays fine crystals on the skin to dislodge dead cells. These devices also suction away the loosened cells as well as other debris that may be clogging your pores, such as dirt and makeup.
A microdermabrasion facial is a gentler version of dermabrasion, a more invasive exfoliation technique performed using a motorized wire brush or an instrument that has a diamond wheel with rough edges at the tip, called a burr. While microdermabrasion is gentler than dermabrasion, it’s still too abrasive for some people.
“Microdermabrasion isn’t recommended for anyone who has an acne breakout, rosacea, or thin, aging skin,” Sopher said. “Another downside is that the amount of suction can be too harsh and may cause broken blood vessels.”
Microdermabrasion benefits
The benefits of microdermabrasion include smoothing the skin, reducing fine lines, wrinkles, and enlarged pores, and improving the appearance of age spots, hyperpigmentation, and acne scars. However, according to Sopher, microdermabrasion is less effective against some of these problems, including hyperpigmentation, than HydraFacial MD.
What is a HydraFacial?
HydraFacial MD is a multi-step procedure that offers the benefits of microdermabrasion but relies more on chemical exfoliation than physical exfoliation. “It’s sort of a combination of microdermabrasion and a chemical peel,” said Sopher.
One of the advantages of a HydraFacial is that it does more than just exfoliate. During the first step, the provider uses a wand-like instrument to cleanse your skin and apply a peel that contains ingredients that exfoliate and hydrates, such as lactic acid and glucosamine. During step two, the wand delivers a combination of glycolic acid and salicylic acid to loosen dirt and debris that may be clogging your pores, which is removed using vacuum suction in step three. Last, the wand infuses your skin with peptides and hyaluronic acid so it looks plump and youthful.
HydraFacial benefits
As with microdermabrasion, the benefits of HydraFacial MD include smoothing the skin, reducing fine lines, wrinkles, and enlarged pores, and improving the appearance of age spots, hyperpigmentation, and acne scars. The combination of physical exfoliation and skin-brightening acids makes HydraFacial MD more effective at addressing issues such as dark spots, said Sopher.
A HydraFacial is also gentler on the skin than a microdermabrasion facial because the level of suction can be adjusted. Plus, the concentration of the acids can be customized. As a result, HydraFacials are safe for nearly every skin type. The lone exception is if you have an acne breakout that’s infected, but you can get a HydraFacial once your skin has healed.
“With a HydraFacial, you can also request add-on ‘booster’ treatments that are tailored to your skin concerns to enhance the results,” said Sopher. Examples include a retinol booster serum to minimize wrinkles and a vitamin C serum to make dark spots less noticeable.
HydraFacial vs. microdermabrasion: Downtime, follow-up sessions, and more
HydraFacials provide instant gratification. “Your skin looks dewy and pretty right away, whereas it may be little red and swollen following microdermabrasion,” said Sopher. Those microdermabrasion side effects usually resolve within a matter of hours, however.
For best results, both microdermabrasion facials and HydraFacials need to be repeated. Most people should get a HydraFacial every three to four months, but you can get them more often if you have oily skin. If you choose microdermabrasion, you can choose to get just one treatment before a special event to brighten and soften your skin, but if you want to tackle specific skin concerns, a series of five to 16 sessions is recommended. The sessions may be performed weekly, every other week, or once a month depending on how much time your skin needs to recover.
Both treatments take about an hour. The cost of microdermabrasion and HydraFacial MD is similar, though the price varies depending on where you live. Keep in mind that you may have a harder time finding a dermatology practice that offers microdermabrasion because many practitioners consider HydraFacial MD to be the superior treatment. Sopher, for example, no longer performs microdermabrasion.
Article Written By: Jessica Brown, a health and science writer/editor based in Nanuet, New York. She has written for Prevention magazine, jnj.com, BCRF.org, and many other outlets.
8 Summer Skin Care Tips for Clear and Protected Skin
Medical Review By: Heather Freeman, PA-C
You may love the relaxing vibes of summer, but it can be a stressful time of year for your skin. Sunburn and sun damage are threats, of course. Hotter temperatures and high humidity are also hard on the skin, making it more prone to acne, dryness, and certain types of rashes. Swimming pools also rob skin of moisture.
To keep your skin healthy, clear, and well protected, follow these tips from Heather Freeman, PA-C, a board-certified physician assistant at Water’s Edge Dermatology.
1. Apply sunscreen thoroughly
Even if you use sunscreen religiously, it’s easy to overlook certain areas when you apply it, such as the part in your hair and the tops of your ears. According to Freeman, many people also neglect their hands, particularly people who bike or play sports like golf or tennis.
“Many skin cancers develop on the backs of the hands,” said Freeman. Failure to use sunscreen there can also make your hands look older than other parts of your body: “The skin on the back of your hands is thin, to begin with, and it gets even thinner after years of sun exposure,” she added.
Favor lotion sunscreens over sprays. “Sprays make it very hard to measure how much product you’re using,” said Freeman. That’s a concern since most people don’t use enough sunscreen in the first place.
2. Use a lip balm with SPF
Your lips are delicate and vulnerable to sunburn and lip cancer, particularly your bottom lip. Freeman recommends carrying lip balm with SPF and re-applying it frequently whenever you’re outdoors.
“It’s easier to find lip balm with SPF 15, but it’s better to buy one with SPF 30 or higher if it’s available,” she noted. If your drugstore doesn’t carry one, look for one online. Plenty of brands make them.
3. Use a vitamin C serum
If vitamin C serum is not part of your skincare routine already, summer is a great time to add it, said Freeman. “It provides an extra barrier for your skin because its antioxidant power neutralizes free radicals, which are molecules that cause sun damage,” she explained.
Vitamin C serum also helps fade hyperpigmentation caused by the sun, including sunspots (aka age spots) and melasma. And it boosts collagen production.
Be sure to apply it before you put on sunscreen. Since sunscreen is much thicker, it can prevent the serum from penetrating your skin if you apply it first.
4. Switch to lighter skincare products
Even people who don’t typically get acne may develop blemishes during the summer due to increased sweating and oil production, so adjust your skincare routine accordingly.
“If you usually use a creamy cleanser, for example, switch to a gel or foaming cleanser during the summer to avoid clogging your pores,” said Freeman.
To limit oiliness, consider adding a toner to your regimen. “Toner is great for removing any remaining oils from your skin after you cleanse, and it temporarily shrinks your pores, which helps prevent debris from entering them.”
To avoid over-drying your skin, choose a toner that contains salicylic acid, and steer clear of alcohol-based toners.
5. Don’t skip moisturizer
Moisturizer might seem unnecessary in hot, sticky weather, but your skin still needs moisture now.
“Sun exposure dries out your skin, so if you’re spending more time outdoors, dryness can become an issue,” Freeman explained. “And if you’re swimming in pools more frequently, your skin can also become parched from the chlorine.”
That said, you may want to use a lighter moisturizer, such as a water-based lotion or a hyaluronic acid serum. Use a moisturizer even if you have oily skin. Sebum, the oil in oily skin, doesn’t hydrate skin, it just makes it greasy.
If your moisturizer contains SPF, you still need to use a separate sunscreen if you’ll be outside for more than a short period since moisturizer has less staying power when you’re sweating, Freeman noted.
6. Protect yourself from rashes
Heat and humidity increase the risk of heat rash, also called prickly heat, caused by blocked sweat glands. Symptoms include itching, reddened skin, red bumps, and tiny blisters. Rashes caused by fungal infections are also more common in summer.
RELATED: 6 Common Water Rashes and How to Treat Them
“You’re more likely to get a fungal rash now because fungi love hot, moist areas of your body, particularly the skin folds such as your armpits, stomach, and under your breasts,” said Freeman.
To reduce your risk of heat rash and fungal infections, Freeman recommends wearing breathable, cotton clothes and applying a powder such as Zeasorb to skin folds to absorb sweat. Drying these areas with a hairdryer set on cool is also helpful if you’ve just gotten out of the shower or start to feel sweaty at home.
7. Guard against rosacea flares
Summer weather is hard on people with rosacea since sunlight and heat are common triggers of flare-ups. Unfortunately, chemical sunscreens can also cause a flare.
“If you have rosacea, it’s better to use a mineral sunscreen that contains zinc oxide or titanium dioxide because these ingredients are less likely to aggravate your skin,” said Freeman.
If you want to try a new brand of sunscreen, do a patch test first. Apply a small amount near (not on) a rosacea-prone area of your skin. If it burns or stings within 72 hours, don’t use it.
8. See your dermatologist if you get a serious sunburn
You can easily manage a mild sunburn on your own with cold compresses, aloe vera gel, moisturizer, ibuprofen, and drinking plenty of fluids. But serious sunburns should be evaluated by your doctor, according to Freeman. If your skin is crusting, scabbing, or draining pus, or if you have a fever or chills, you may need to take an antibiotic.
Article Written By: Jessica Brown, a health and science writer/editor based in Brooklyn, New York. She has written for Prevention magazine, jnj.com, BCRF.org, and many other outlets.
What Is a Facial?
Medical Review By: Alyse Penninger
If you’ve never gotten a facial, you may be missing out. But what exactly is a facial?
A facial is a deep cleansing treatment that sloughs away dead skin cells and removes debris from deep in your pores. The techniques and products used vary depending on the type of facial and the provider. Facials are best performed by a licensed aesthetician and may include targeted treatments such as dermaplaning or microdermabrasion.
“When you get a facial, you’re treated with medical-grade products that are designed to penetrate the epidermis and affect the deeper layers of skin, unlike drugstore products that sit on top of your skin,” says Alyse Penninger, a licensed medical aesthetician at Water’s Edge Dermatology. “You also get the expertise of an aesthetician, who evaluates your skin and tailors the products and techniques included in the facial to best address your concerns.”
An aesthetician can tailor your facial to achieve the results you want. Here are some of the types of facials commonly offered by dermatology practices.
Classic facial
A classic facial typically involves four steps: cleansing, exfoliating to remove dead skin cells, extracting debris from your pores and hydration.
“If your pores are very clogged, your aesthetician may also steam your face before doing extractions,” said Penninger. “This softens your epidermis, which makes it easier to remove the debris that’s deep in your pores.”
Benefits of a classic facial include clearer, more radiant skin. Anyone can get a classic facial, regardless of skin type, since it’s easy to customize the products used. If your skin is oily, for example, your aesthetician will hydrate your skin with moisturizers that are lighter than those used for people with normal to dry skin.
When to get one: Every four to six weeks.
Acne/milia facial
If you have acne or milia — small, hard bumps that develop under the top layer of skin — you may be tempted to “pop” them yourself. But it’s much safer and more effective to get a facial designed for these concerns.
The reason: When you get an acne or milia facial, your aesthetician will use special tools, such as a lancet, to gently break the skin and expel the contents of the lesion or milia with minimal pressure. To draw out blackheads and whiteheads, the aesthetician may also use ultrasonic tools, which create gentle vibrations in the skin.
“People are sometimes tempted to squeeze acne themselves, but they often apply too much force,” Penninger says. “This can cause irritation and broken capillaries, making skin look even more rough and blotchy.” Squeezing won’t get rid of milia due to their pearl-like hardness and location beneath the surface of the skin.
When to get one: Every four weeks. People with severe acne can get one more often.
Oxygen therapy facial
This type of facial is appropriate for all skin types, though it’s particularly well suited to dry skin. After cleansing and exfoliating your face, the aesthetician uses a wand-like instrument to deliver streams of pressurized oxygen combined with hydrating serums to the skin. This allows the serums to penetrate more deeply.
“Oxygen therapy facials hydrate and plump your skin, making it look more lifted and firm and diminishing fine lines,” Penninger said.
When to get one: Every four to six weeks.
Dermaplaning
Dermaplaning can be added on to any facial. The aesthetician uses a small surgical blade to exfoliate the top layer of skin and remove peach fuzz.
“People love to get dermaplaning before special events because it makes skin look so smooth, almost like it’s airbrushed,” Penninger said.
Your skin may look red for a few days after treatment, so it’s best to schedule the treatment a few days before a special event.
When to get it: Every three to four weeks.
Microdermabrasion
Microdermabrasion delivers more powerful exfoliation compared to classic facials. The aesthetician uses a small, mildly abrasive tool to remove the top layer of skin, diminishing age spots, hyperpigmentation, acne scars and enlarged pores. Microdermabrasion also causes the collagen in skin to thicken, making your face look tighter and smoother.
For more aggressive treatment of hyperpigmentation, fine lines, wrinkles, acne scars and sun damage, your provider might recommend a chemical peel, which is not generally performed in conjunction with a facial. Chemical peels use an acid to slough off the top layers of skin.
When to get it: Twice a month at first, then once a month to maintain the results. Get a mild- or moderate-strength chemical peel once every six to 12 months. Get a deep peel once in your life.
HydraFacial
In this type of facial, the aesthetician uses a wand-like device to perform every step of the treatment. Cleansing and exfoliating are combined into one step; the wand dispenses clearing serum to your face and washes away dead skin cells with a special spiral tip. Next, the aesthetician uses the wand to apply a gentle peel that loosens the debris in your pores, then uses suction to remove the debris. Last, the wand delivers antioxidants and peptides (amino acids that make skin look more plump and firm) to your skin.
While the name implies that the treatment is best for people with dry skin, anyone can get a HydraFacial because the serums used can be tailored to your skin type, Penninger said. Benefits include a brighter, more even complexion and less-noticeable fine lines.
When to get it: Every two to four weeks depending on your skin type.
Article Written By: Jessica Brown, a health and science writer/editor based in Brooklyn, New York. She has written for Prevention magazine, jnj.com, BCRF.org and many other outlets.